Aventura 30: Caminantes en Collioure

 

Caminante

Caminante, son tus huellas 

el camino, y nada más; 

caminante, no hay camino, 

se hace camino al andar.

Al andar se hace camino, 

y al volver la vista atrás 

se ve la senda que nunca 

se ha de pisar. 

Caminante, no hay camino, 

sino estelas en la mar.

It's hard to translate this poem, as it is all poems, so I don't think I'm going to try.  But the poet, Antonio Machado, writes of an adventurer, a walker, who can't turn back.  He looks back but his footsteps have disappeared - he can only go forward.  I remember memorizing this poem sophomore year of high school in Spanish class, and one interpretation of it was taking full advantage of life and your path and everything that is going on because you can't turn back.

After reading this poem with my group at the tomb of Antonio Machado, I discovered another interpretation - more serious, "muy heavy" like my friend Gemma says. Machado was poet exiled during the Civil War, fleeing to the refugee camps in France that were actually like concentration camps.  He died here in Collioure, and we visited his tomb a few days before the day he died.  He was a symbol for the many people who fleed Spain, especially the intellectuals and artists.  For Machado, he couldn't and wouldn't ever turn back.  He made that serious pilgrimage to France only to look back and see his steps erased forever.  

For the rest of the day, we became our own caminantes and adventures.  Wandering around with Katie and my mom (!) we found a summer village sleeping the winter but still brilliant with color.  A beach with a crepe place right on the water.  An old castle that we could wander around.  And the best part, from the castle I spotted a windmill, and we really started to walk, just in the direction we thought it would be.  Luckily for us, we our footsteps didn't disappear because we had to retrace our path a few times to find this mysterious windmill, but we finally reach it after hiking up a park full of olive trees!

Aventura 29: Restaurante teresa carles

I HAVE to give this restaurant it's own aventura.  I went twice when my mom and sister were here, they went three times, and I'm planning on going at least two more times before my time is up in Barcelona!

Enter the restaurant:

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d2075668-Reviews-Teresa_Carles-Barcelona_Catalonia.html

Look at the menu:

http://teresacarles.com/

Order for dinner:

Melon and Cinnamon smoothie

Pumpkin and Potato Croquettes

Heart-Shaped Homemade Ravioli with Pesto Sauce

Coconut-Tiramasu Wafer Tower

Order for lunch the next day:

Melon and Cinnamon smoothie

the freshest Minestrone Soup

Pasta with Eggplant Marinara Sauce

Save the dessert for the next time!

Return as soon as you can!

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d2075668-Reviews-Teresa_Carles-Barcelona_Catalonia.html

Dirección:

Jovellanos, 2

08001 Barcelona

Aventura 28: The Ultimate Adventure Headquarters

If you are ever looking for a seclusive cave to inspire artistic imaginings or a crazy adventure headquarters or a house that you will never, ever get bored of - look no further than Casa Batlló.  This house designed by Gaudí has everything you could imagine and you could never imagine.  The skin of reptiles on the walls.  A terrace that undulates like the waves of the ocean.  Stairs that go up, up, up circling around with a different surprise around everywhere corner.  4 swivel windows that are used like morse code to give signals to your comrades that the enemies are coming from the left - no, the right! Shadows that lurk here and there.....

Chandeliers that look like they were taken from a Dr. Seuss jungle or from an ancient artistic depiction of the sun, giving off shadows that strangely don't match the cut of the lamp itself.

Curves and forms like water or cell bodies or imaginary eyes.  Blue stained glass that changes the look of the world outside.

Bones from the skeleton of a dragon that help hold up the house.

Beautiful combinations of curves, circles, flower-like shapes.  There are barely any straight lines in this house.  

The main living room - or is it the top secret room for decisions made by adventurers?

A terraza that is a mosaic wonderland guarded by the ocean's gates: seaweed wrapping around the fence instead of straight-laced iron.

And if you talk about mysterious doors and windows.........

Combinations of windows, blinds, stairs? Mirrors? Are you looking up or looking down? You can get totally turned around in this house!

A sanctuary in the sky...in the middle of the house?

Or is it a sanctuary in the ocean?

Depends on if you are looking through the shields of glass or not....

It seems like that with this house.  That everything changes depending on what direction your head is turned: right, left, up, down, right-side-up, up-side-down, backwards, forwards, diagonal...

Tilt your head a little, and you will see the reptile skin on the wall shine brilliant colors.

Or walk upstairs and you will be inside the prehistoric reptile - or the vestuario of the greatest ancient athletes of the world.

Walk to the roof, and you will encounter a whole different world.

With crazy imaginings you've never had...

Like riding on the back of a dragon to the end's of the sky.

So you run back down the stairs, as if you are flying on that dragon, flying with the ideas and wonders and creations of this house that has made your wildest dreams actually a reality.

Aventura 27: Barbacoaaaa

Sunday concluded a weekend that I can count on my fingers as one of my favorites ever.  I'll tell you about the Friday and Saturday part later, but this aventura on Sunday was a centimeter less than perfect, only because perfection doesn't exist!

What happened? On one end, it was one of the calmest aventures I have recounted here: relaxing, eating, and talking.   

On the other hand, it was the most exciting aventura yet! My fútbol team, Sansur, had a barbacoa in place of the game that got rescheduled.  We all drove out in three cars 45 minutes outside of Barcelona to a teammate's house closer to the mountains.  Even just driving on the highway with the window rolled down, the music singing along with the wind, and looking at the mountains of Montserrat in the distance was enough of a break from the city life of Barcelona.  But add to that: 

Preparing food in a country home

Dancing and grilling the best looking chorizos, carne, butifarra, vegetables, pollo, and pan to put it all on

Sitting around a makeshift table on the patio, the only way to have a true cook-out

Talking, laughing, reaching across the table, using the slingshot fork, eating homemade cookies

Singing happy birthday in catalán/castellano (yo) while carrying the candles out by hand because they won't stay in the cake!

Walking up the stairs to the patio on top of the roof and just relaxing on chairs, taking in the powerful rays of the sun that decided to come out just in time!

Dancing and singing over and over again to a playlist of only 5 songs (but the 5 very best songs!)

Passing and juggling la pelota

Water fights

Quick! three pictures in a row and you have to change positions and you can't fall on anyone even though Nata just jumped over everyone!

Laughing and laughing and laughing

Sleeping on the way home, window rolled down, after three hours of lying around in the sun

I don't think even colorful words though can explain this day any better than this picture.  Silliness, smiles, comfort, hugs, sun, jumping and falling on top of each other, laughing......it can't get any better than this.

Aventura 26: Palau de la Música

http://queverbarcelona.blogspot.com/2011/11/conoces-el-palau-de-la-musica-catalana.html

21.03h:  3 minutes late for the concert, but I might still make it in time before they close the doors.  Run up the stairs, don't look around at all the colors, sculptures, flowers, chandeliers, and decoration around you.  Walkrun up three flights of red carpeted stairs, wow....the carpet is beautiful, with the floors patterns and all the designs....

No, focus, up the stairs, ask the usher where you are sitting.  Enter, don't trip because all the lights are off.  Find your seat, squeeze past the people and PHEW.  

Finally, sit down and rest.  Close your eyes for a second, say hi to your friends next to you, and try to look around.  But as you got here just in the nick of time, all the lights are already off.  Until you get a glimpse of shining, glittery red and blue way in front and down below.  Then you here a voice speaking to the crowd.  That must be José Mercé, the flamenco singer - that is why you are here anyways! Just sit back, relax, and enjoy his singing....

Except that you can't sit back and relax.  The moment he starts singing, you have your elbows on your knees inched to the edge of the seat, straining over three rows of people to see where this incredible voice is coming from with so much energy, depth, and emotion.  You peer through silhouetted heads to see a small figure dressed in casual black, gray long hair, and a huge smile.  He's singing along with the guitarrist next to him and dancing in the background are the statues that are coming out of the wall.  Those glittering lights you saw before are making the statues swirl and twirl with the rhythm of the guitar.  

Your feet, body, and hands are all swaying with the guitar and the voice.  You want to capture this feeling, remember this feeling forever, but you are not sure how.  You grab your sketchbook and pencil and just start to move your hand along with the rhythm, following the dance of the statues with no idea where your lines are going because, well, it's dark, remember?


And then you thought it couldn't get any better, but three women and two other men come out to add more voices, drums, and a cool rattling instrument.  And while they are singing, Jose Mercé gets up and starts dancing flamenco and laughing and talking with the audience.  And what does everyone around you do in response? Not just a normal clap, no...but a clap to the rhythm of the music and song! You find yourself clapping and singing with them too, even though you don't know the words. And when Mercé tries to leave two times to end the show, you find yourself chanting "otra, otra" for an encore.  He comes out for a third improvisational song, and "escapes" by dancing off stage!

We sat on the right side here! ---------------------------------------->

Standing and clapping like crazy (flamenco-style) the lights come on, and you are almost pushed back into your seat with the awe of what is around you.  This is what you were sitting in this whole time? How could you not have even noticed? You started to get pushed a little bit by the crowd around you heading for the carpeted stairs, but all you want to do is look around.  You can't talk your eyes off the ceiling, but you have to otherwise you are going to trip! All you know is that you have to come back here - the show is not over!





Here's some of his singing if you want to listen!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV2GnCkT5aI

Aventura 25: Barcelona vs. Valencia, Barcelona vs. Valencia

Watching from the second row of Camp Nou the amazing skills, passes, touches, fluidity, togetherness, heart, and teamwork of F.C. Barcelona men's team play, I wonder where the magic comes from.

The luck of a tart from our local pastelería?

Game 1, Copa del Rey: Barcelona (53) v. Valencia (0) turned into Barcelona (2) v. Valencia (0)

Game 2, La liga: Barcelona (15) v. Valencia (3) turned into Barcelona (5) v. Valencia (1)

The storm of drums, songs, chants, and "Wakka, Wakka's" that the fans surround and engulf the team with?

Tot el camp

és un clam

som la gent blaugrana

Tant se val d'on venim

si del sud o del nord

ara estem d'acord, ara estem d'acord, 

una bandera ens agermana.

Blaugrana al vent

un crit valent

tenim un nom el sap tothom:

Barça, Barça, Baaarça!

Jugadors, seguidors,

tots units fem força.

Son molt anys plens d'afanys,

son molts gols que hem cridat

i s'ha demostrat, i s'ha demostrat,

que mai ningu no ens podrà torcer.

Blaugrana al vent

un crit valent

tenim un nom el sap tothom:

Barça, Barça, Baaarça!

The whole stadium

loudly cheers

We’re the blue and claret supporters

It matters not where we hail from

Whether it's the south or the north

Now we all agree, we all agree,

One flag unites us in brotherhood. 

Blue and claret blowing in the wind

One valiant cry

We’ve got a name that everyone knows: 

Barça, Barça, Baaarça!

Players, Supporters

United we are strong.

We’ve achieved much over the years,

We’ve shouted many goals

And we have shown, we have shown,

That no one can ever break us.

Blue and claret blowing in the wind

One valiant cry

We’ve got a name that everyone knows:

Barça, Barça, Baaarça!

The inability of Iniesta to lose the ball in the middle, the superhuman ability of Messi to score four goals in a game, the strong headers and even stronger slide tackles of Puyol, the dancing feet of Alexis, or the quick, smooth, unseen runs made by Xavi to always keep the triangles in the middle?

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

Or is it something else, a combination of everything from the patterns of stars in the sky to the patterns of passes on the field, from the fans sitting at home watching every game to the fans at the stadium to the coaches to the players themselves, from the luck of a pastry to the luck that these players all ended up where they did - a combination that no one can explain exactly?

Which, you know what, might be okay with me.  As I realized recently, the most beautiful things in the world are made up of questions, not answers.

Aventura 24: MACBA

http://www.barcelonaemotion.com/en/visiting-macba-in-barcelona/macba-barcelona-4/

MACBA.  Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona.  The museum was as much of an exhibit, a work of art, as what was inside! Walking up the ramps right inside the windows and looking out on la Plaza de Angels and the beautiful sunny day was like walking through an art piece - or it has that special feeling, that "ish" feeling (for those who have read the wonderful children's book Ish.)

We had ventured to the MACBA for the photography exhibit Centre Internacional de Fotografia Barcelona (1978-1983).  This exhibition, with photos from many different artists, chronicled the everyday life of the late 70's, early 80's in Barcelona.  These years were the Transition; years marking the change from a dictatorship to a democracy, which was not easy.  While students and certain political parties were ready to move towards a democracy, the church and parts of the military wanted to maintain the dictatorship.  There was a great amount of terrorist acts and many people feared a second civil war.  Thanks to King Juan Carlos I, when Franco died in 1975, the king took charge and gave the country back to the people, asking them what they wanted and what the majority wanted was a democracy.   Then followed one of the quickest transitions to a democracy, writing up the Spanish Constitution of 1978.  

This Centre Internacional de Fotografía Barcrlona existed in those years of the Transition as an experiment in photography and art.  A key theme to the photography produced there was recording the everyday life of people living in Barcelona and its neighborhoods during that time.  The photos were taken by teachers and students alike.  As the MACBA website describes, 

 It is a collective representation of a traumatised city at the end of a long dictatorship, prior to the urban renovation of the 1980s, at a moment of emergence of new micropolitical social behaviours and new forms of resistance that would lead to the recovery of the public space. 

http://imaginarycity.net/2012/02/12/centre-internacional-de-fotografia/

This type of photography is very different from the kind I've been used to while being in Barcelona - that of climbing Montserrat or watching the sunset over the water and taking a picture.  This type of tourist photography doesn't have much meaning to me - I take pictures for the blog, yes, but it doesn't have as much meaning for me because I can't always capture how I actually felt there.  But these photos, I felt like I actually got to know people - I could intuit their personalities and feelings.  I could place myself in the streets and in the time period.  Walking through these walls of photos, I met people who lived during the transitions, from old ladies and men, to younger people our age to families living on a couch in an abandoned parking lot to a group of circus performers in Sitges.

Each museum I go to I see different techniques, different mediums, but there's beginning to be a recurring theme.  The way I learn and enter into the world of a city I'm unfamiliar with either because it was a different time period or a different place.  But I'm realizing this ability of art, more so than a textbook, to pass on the feelings, history, thoughts, and culture of a place 70 years ago.  While looking at these circus photos or of the mom and daughter from la Maleta Mexicana exhibit, you feel as if, for that moment, you are right there with them.